Jared Crapo

Hey, I'm Jared and I'm an amateur radio operator, callsign K0TFU. My local club is the Draper Ham Radio Association. Read more about me.

First Radio

Looking for your first radio and don't want to learn everything about handheld ham radios in order to get on the air?

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Complete Guide

Specifications, feature comparisons, reviews, and buying advice for handheld ham radios and antennas.

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Repeater Systems

Amateur radio repeaters can be linked together into a repeater system. When you send a transmission to any repeater in the system, your transmission is relayed to all of the other repeaters in the system. I've gathered data for 12 repeater systems in the Mountain West. Each one has a map, frequency listings, a printable list, and a file you can download and import into CHIRP.

Hamspot 5

Hamspot 5

There are many digital modes in amater radio. The ones popular on handheld VHF/UHF radios include:

  • D-Star
  • DMR
  • System Fusion
  • NXDN
  • P25

To use these modes you typically need two things:

  • a handheld radio that supports the mode you want to use
  • a nearby repeater or reflector that supports the mode you want to use

There are many options for handheld radios. These repeaters are usually connected to the internet which enables communications with others around the world using that same mode. If there isn't a repeater in your area that offers the digital mode you want to use, you are out of luck. Unless you have a hotspot.

A hotspot is a pocket sized low power repeater that connects to the internet and can communicate with your handheld using various digital modes. You can buy commercial devices, or build your own with a Raspberry Pi, radio boards, and open source software.

The Hamspot 5 by Collin K0NNK is a new option which gives you the flexibility and upgradability of your own Raspberry Pi based solution, without you having to do all the tinkering to get something that works.

This looks like a great option, with full duplex operation and a nice looking case. Runs from USB-C power, and connects to the internet via Ethernet or Wi-Fi.

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LinHT Progress

A couple months ago Wojciech Kaczmarski SP5WWP announced the LinHT project. These mad lads buy a Retevis C62 radio and replace all the circuit boards inside with their own. They aim to create an open-source hardware, Linux based, SDR handheld transceiver. Their first boot of the OS happened on August 18.

Last week, Wojciech, Andreas OE3ANC, and Vlastimil OK5VAS hit a major milestone: the radio now works as a complete M17 transceiver.

A few days later, Vlastimil submitted a PR for the first iteration of Revision B of the circuit boards, which includes:

  • a 5W amplifier
  • new audio codec
  • a redesigned power system which can charge from USB-C with simultaneous operation of the radio

Rev B is not yet ready for manufacturing, but I'll be following closely and can't wait to buy one.

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USB-C Power Delivery Power Supply

Because the market for batteries to charge phones and laptops is so much larger than the market for batteries we 12V output, all the innovation in batteries is happening on batteries that have USB-C Power Delivery output. There are many vendors and lots of products with different characteristics. If you want to use these batteries with amateur radio gear that takes 12V, or that requires an unusual voltage (my UV-5R battery charger wants 10V input), you have to:

  • buy this cable from Adafruit which asks the USB-C device for 12V
  • connect it to a small buck converter or boost converter to get the voltage that you want
  • live with the losses and heat of the buck/boost converter

Now there is another option, the PocketPD. This small device allows you to choose the voltage you want, and it requests that voltage from the connected USB-C power source. You need a modern USB-C power source that supports the Programmable Power Supply mode from USB PD 3.0 and later. As you would expect, there are many USB-C power sources that comply with this standard.

Instead of bucking or boosting the voltage from USB-C, this device just asks the USB-C for exactly the voltage that you want. Very clever.

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